The_Toecutter wrote:Does that used EV have a warrantee? What condition is the battery pack in? How much is it going to cost to replace the charger or battery if either goes out unexpectedly? Will it cost more to fix than the car is worth?
No. Excellent. Dunno. Might.
Here is the beauty of cheap buyin though Toe. Numbers 3 and 4 may never matter if a car company can build a car with a different drive train and do it well. 8 years for 1 and nearly 2 years for the other now, and the answer is...looking good.
Other EV, having paid far more for it a long time ago, did have a warrantee, but it is long gone. The SOC on the original battery is maybe 80%? Dunno how much to replace the charger or battery there either. And might cost more than car is worth. And it has 173K on it as it sits in the garage. Do you want to tell me how it has served me poorly over 8 years and 170k+ miles? Because I have to be honest, how well that one worked in all EV mode is what made it worth the risk on a 2nd used one. And both of them, with 200K+ running miles, are doing fine.
Do you assume otherwise, that engineers at Ford and Nissan can't build a solid battery/electric motor setup?
Toe_Cutter wrote:While EVs tend to be reliable, there is no shortage of people that have gotten burned after purchasing lemons, for which it was not possible to tell they were lemons beforehand even in cases where the owner was meticulous about caring for it. A buyer can even end up owing payments on a used vehicle that no longer works and will take more money than the vehicle is worth to be operable again, and that is not a good situation to be when when one depends on that vehicle to get them back and forth to work while living paycheck to paycheck.
See above. No lemons in sight. Cars are built better now in general, this isn't like when I grew up and mostly junk was coming out of Detroit.
Toe_Cutter wrote: Nissan did not build it to be easily or inexpensively repaired. It will cost far more than the car is worth to fix.
Could be. The question I ask when buying any vehicle, is what is my Capx/Mile driven. For example, new car, $40G's, driven 1 mile, is $40G's/mile Capx. Not really interested in OpX but anyone could include that if they wanted.
My best car isn't my new ones that went 100K miles at $25G buyin (4 miles/$1) or even my 8 year old original EV (172K miles/$27.5G buyin= 6.2 miles/$1) but the POS Chrysler I bought for a college car for the kids, that during the last weeks snowstorm was the only one I was running, blasting through snow like a Hummer and nearly impossible to stop in anything less than a foot of snow, 20K miles at $2.8G buyin = 7.1 miles/$1.
The Leaf sits at 2.5 miles/$1 right now. If it goes as long as your friends, it'll get to 8.1 miles/1$ and beat them all. So I would have nothing to complain about if it died just as your friends did, my money would have been frugally spent.
The way to do even better? My current experiment, purchased with salvage title, old school American iron, it already sits at 2.7 miles/$1 spent, and when testing of it ends in the spring at 20K miles, I have hopes it will already be at 6+ miles/$1 spent in a single year, with another 100K of life left in it.
In either case, neither of my EVs have been a disappointment.
Toe_Cutter wrote:What a waste. Especially given that there is no economically viable means to recycle some of the materials that go into these cars.
Well,
looks like Leaf batteries can have life after life.