Exploring Hydrocarbon Depletion
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I actually try to dry my oak for 3-4 seasons.
argyle wrote: I have a stainless steel chimney, while my parents have fireproof brick chimney. (so not as smooth -> maybe also more deposits)
davep wrote:I actually try to dry my oak for 3-4 seasons.
That's correct for oak. Note that during those four years the split oak needs to spend six months without being covered in order for the rain to help get rid of the tannins.
Heineken wrote:argyle wrote: I have a stainless steel chimney, while my parents have fireproof brick chimney. (so not as smooth -> maybe also more deposits)
I think a steel chimney is much better than brick. Because the steel tube is narrower, the chimney draws air better. Also, you're right, it's much easier to clean a steel chimney. I had a steel chimney once and it was so easy for me to maintain. I have a brick one now and it keeps glazing up on me.
I'd like to have a steel chimney inserted into my brick chimney. Not sure if that readily can be done.
seahorse3 wrote:Heineken, I haven't read all 3 pages on this thread so I apologize for asking a basic question. But, sometime in the future, I would like to buy a wood cook stove for a home (800 sq ft). It would be on the second floor (its actually a 3 story building). I would like to be able to cook with it and heat the house. So, what do you recommend? In looking at all the various stoves, there are so many factors its hard for the novice to know what is good or bad. Some stoves burn either coal or wood, is this good? Some are ceramic, others steel, what features would I want? what features aren't worth anything, etc.
davep wrote:One problem with the steel chimney tube inside a brick one is that it can create too much negative pressure (tirage in French, I can't remember the term in English) as it heats up and burn your wood too quickly. In my experience, it's better to have the first five or six feet or so as steel tubing, then widening out to a brick chimney at the ceiling level.
vtsnowedin wrote:Here is a place to start shopping for a wood cook stove.
http://www.lehmans.com/store/Stoves___C ... 0200?Args=
The one I have in the kitchen was made in the 1920s and is enamel coated cast iron which was and is top of the line. Uncoated black cast iron is cheaper and prone to rusting when the stove is not in use. Plate steel or sheet metal stoves are cheaper yet and you get what you pay for.
The Andes range I have has a flat surface that with the reservoir on the side measures 47"x 30". In it's day it also had a water jacket down one side of the fire box that was plumbed to a water tank standing behind the stove in the space between the stove and the kitchen wall. This worked by thermo-syphon and provided all the hot water to the house. (If you wanted to take a bath you would run your hand down the side of the galvanized uninsulated tank to see how far down it was hot. If it was more then half full [ or hot rather it was always full]you were good to go. ) It had both coal grates and a way to shake them down and wood grates both of which I have managed to burn through with eighty years of use and I'm down to a wood grate from another spare stove that has some issues. I'll probably have to break down and buy a new stove soon but doubt that I can find one that has the firebox extension this stove has and certainly not the sentimental value.
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