A couple of thoughts.
For cheap, invisible mass, go local lumberyards and ask about broken sheets of drywall, many times they are simply chucked in the dumpster and should be free or nearly so. Screw as many layers as you can on the walls near your stove and then top with a layer of good 3/8 in. drywall (or simply tape and mud the broken pieces if you are good) and finish as you like.
I met CA's energy requirements for thermal mass on one house we built simply by using 5/8 instead of 1/2in drywall and was able to frame on 24in centers to boot - it cost less to build, was invisible and quieter too.Here
is Simpsons Duravent install guide; it will give you a start for that product but use whatever comes with your pipe. Be especially careful regarding clearances, fire stops, insulation shields and roof penetration flashings and final height.
IIRC, the UBC requires a 3ft final height above the penetration AND
two ft above ANY
part of the building within 10ft horizontally - I know from experience this can get you in trouble if you aren't careful.
That is not only a good thing safety wise but also helps promote a good draw.
Also stoves that are UL listed will have a label showing minimum clearances and some also have optional heat shields to reduce the minimum clearance. Be very careful to observe those distances as your fire insurance might well be voided through an improper installation or foregoing a building permit.
When in doubt in this case I would certainly urge having a pro do the install
Just my 2 pennies worth…
Oh boy...I was really excited to find this thread! Although a bit dismayed to find so little discussion on heat exchangers
Am in total agreement with Pops...its all about thermal mass. I have a 300year old bread oven , and have been slowly adding components to improve its efficiency. The chimneys stack is 50x50cm inside ,solid brick and is centrally located (for those of you building new houses...sacrify the space and go for a exposed central stack!). I put in 3 big birch logs a day and the stack accumulates so much heat it radiates and continually heats the whole house all through the next day!
I experimented routing convection tubes to individual rooms, however the measureable heated air transfer, turned out not to be worth the effort.
The current project is installing a coil/drum hot water heat exchanger...I had an old electric boiler w/ coil sitting around, so am just in the process of plumbing it in. The problem I am having is that I can only get enough hight on the boiler for the top of the coil/drum in the fireplace to be level with the top of the coil inside the boiler..."Is that enough to allow for thermal siphoning?" or does the boiler coil have to be significantly above the top of the coil inside the fireplace? I am not to keen on adding an electric pump to the circuit
I have been told that copper coil in the fireplace can't make direct contact with the open flame. Several people adviced me to buy a "drum(?)" insert with 2 ports on it which just sits in the rear of the oven/fireplace...since I have an allergy against buying things, I'd rather just build a thin high fired brick wall between the coil and the fire inside the oven...not sure which would be more efficient for circulation?
Fireplaceguy- Again, thankyou so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge!